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Intermittent engine stalling?

Car: Honda, Accord LX, 1994     -    Back to Fix-It    -    Honda Accord LX Repair Manuals

Q.Intermittent engine stalling?.....
1) 2wks ago, starting the engine and driving out to the street in about 1-2 miles, coming to a stop sign and stopped my car, and after stopping and putting on gas to drive up, then, the engine stalled. The engine didn''t start up right away; waiting for a minute or two, tried again and the engine started up, but stalled again soon after driving several yards. Repeating the same procedure....waiting 1-2 mintues and started the engine and drove a little, then, stalled again. This time I waited about 45 min- 60 min., then, the engine started up right away and no engine stall and normal driving. The next day I took the car to a Honda dealer and have them take a look; they found no issues and even a technician took the car home for the night just in case and drove back next morning, but he found no sign of engine stall.
2) Today, after 2 wks since then, I experienced the engine stall again in a very similar manner....what would be the issue?

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More Info required It's really hard to say. Are you having any RPM gauge issues?
When it doesn't restart after it stalls do you have dash indicator lights?

Addition No RPM gauge issues.
Yes, dash indicator lights come on when it stalls. Also, "ticking noise"(?) somewhere in the steering case or dash area for about 10 -15 seconds when it stalls.

Answer Hmm,
The best thing you can do is just check for spark and fuel when it stalls. I suspect though that you have a bad main relay under the driver's dash and that's what's making the clicking noise. If you have no fuel when it stalls that's the problem for sure. Let me know if you need more help.

Addition Thanks. I have one more question.
Then, what's the reason of 1 - 2 min. Vs 1 hr waiting for the engine's start up after stall? The engine started up and the car ran normal after waiting for about 1hr or so, whereas 1 - 2 min. Made the engine started up ok but stalled again just driving several yards. Was this cause by possibly flooded gas or something? If so, what would be the cause? I still guessing....

Addition Sorry, I forgot to ask.....
Your comment on the possible "bad relay".....
Now I am getting the whole picture together(still guessing....).....
OK, a bad relay can cause engine stall, right? When that happens while driving, it is normal you are still pumping a gas(your foot is on the accelerator), specially if that takes place(engine stall) from stopping(such as stop sign) to resuming(pumping gas to move). In that case, the engine stalled already because of the bad relay(also, "clicking noise" in the driver's dash), and your foot "had already pumped" excessive gas into the engine, which causes "flooded gas" in the engine.....as a result, you have to wait until it dries up....does it take 30 min. - 60 min.? Does 1 -2 min. Waiting fire up the engine, but won't drive much because it's still wet/flooded?
The other question is.. does the engine stall takes place first and then, the clicking noise in the dash?; or the clicking noise first(bad relay) and then stall; or both simultaneously happens?

Addition I am more inclined to agree to your opinion of "bad relay" related to the engine stall and the clicking noise in the dash.....
I found the info on the website which explains about the symptoms of my engine stall fits almost perfectly. Go to and read at:
http://www. Marklamond. Co. Uk/tech-honda/pgm-fi/main-relay/main-relay. Htm
Main Relay...Fixing your PGM-Fi Main Relay.
Symptoms
Problems starting the car, usually after a short run (when the interior is warm), though in bad cases the car may fail to start at any time. A classic time for the problem to occur is at the petrol station, or if you park for a minute to get something from a shop. If the car is parked for a long period, the interior usually has cooled enough for the joint to make contact again, and you won't notice a problem. As the cabin temperature is a major feature of this problem, it might appear worse on cold or rainy days when you have the heater running to clear the windows etc. Extremely cold temperatures can also cause the problem to be more apparent.
The engine will usually fire, run for a split second and then stall, as the remaining fuel under pressure is used up. When you turn the ignition key to position II (ignition on) you should see the PGM-Fi indicator on the dash light up and extinguish. Exactly timed with this lamp, you should hear a click and the fuel pump turn on and off. If you do not hear a click and the fuel pump, then the main relay is likely to be at fault.
A collection of main relays.
The black relay is used around 1985-1991, the small grey type are used from 1992-1995 and the large grey relay is used from 1995-2000+
The later 1995-on relays rarely go wrong, they use a different design to the earlier version. Click here to take a look inside.
The Cause
The problem is caused by dry joints in the PGM-FI main relay. This relay controls power to the ECU, and the fuel pump. Without power to the rest of the fuel-injection system, or fuel pump, you won't be going anywhere!
Below is a diagram of the PGM-FI system fitted to Honda's first fuel injected engine as fitted to the MK1 CRX. PGM-FI has constantly evolved over the years but the function of the relay is the same in all Honda cars - to supply power to the fuel pump, and fuel-injection components.
On recent cars such as the 2001 Civic the current draw by the main relay is monitored by the ECU, this way the ECU can tell if the main relay is faulty.

Addition Here's the video clip I took yesterday when the engine stalled(I took this shot right after the engine stalled):
http://youtube.com/user/5fearless
....dash indicator lights came on, and that "clicking noise".When I turned on the ignition, it cranked, but the engine didn't start. I waited about a few minutes, then the engine started up, but stalled again after driving several yards. Then, I waited about 45 min. Or so instead of a few minutes, and turned on the ignition, then the engine started up right away.....and no problem running and drove all day long w/o stall.
Is the cause of the stall a bad "main relay"?

Answer I think you do have a bad main relay. That clicking is most likely from that relay.

Addition Thanks! I will take my car to the Honda shop and have them take a look/repair. I'll keep you posted!

Addition Thanks again for my Accord's case. Your advice was helpful and saved my time and money! Your pointer was precise and I could decide what to do next w/o hesitation. I can highly recommend your expertise to others!

More Info required No problem!

Addition re Intermittent engine stall....
I replaced a main relay 5 days ago as you recommended, but my car stalled again today. This time, it happened when I was driving on a freeway.....dangerous! There was that "clicking noise" again when/after the engine stalled. The same situation as the last few inciidents of the engine stall.
1) The engine stalled while driving...this time on freeway today.
2) Off the road, I waited for a couple of minutes after stalled, and turning the ignition, the engine fired up, and drove several yards, then, it stalled again.
3) Repeated the above 2) process and parked my car in a shade.
4) After waiting about 10 min. Or so in the shade, and tuned the ignition, fired up the engine, back to normal and drove all day long without a stall.
5) What's going on here? It seems there is always that "clcking noise" with the engine stall and the clicking noise lasts about 10 -15seconds and disappers.
6) Also, it seems the stall happens when the interior(inside the car) is hot(warm sunny day) and so far never experienced the stall at night. Waiting in a shade 10 - 20 min did help as I described above...?
So, now, what would be the possbibile cause of this "intermittent stall"? I put a new main relay, so that's ruled out, right?
I'd like to get your expertise opinion before I take my car back to the Honda dealer. Please help!
Waiting for your answer. Thanks.
PS: I videotaped today's engine stall by chance and I will post it on my Youtube again later tonight so that you can view it and analyze...?

Addition Here's the video clips #1- 3 which show what/how happened.
http://www. Youtube. Com/user/5fearless
Also, what part(s) would become most "heat sensitive" and "vulnerable" when the car gets old?....such as main relay, ignition system, inertia switch, fuel injector, CYP/TDC/CKP sensors, air filter, PGM-FI system, ECM, etc...????

More Info required The main fuel relay is the problem, it's the part that heat sensitive.

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