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Replacing Timing Belt and Water Pump



Crankshaft bolt - top view Getting the crankshaft pulley lose After making 50K miles on my timing belt I've decided to change it along with water pump and all the parts that become accessible during front opening as they may or may not got old at the time.
Main challenge for me was to get the crankshaft pulley bolt loose. Usually it's done with impact gun but I do not have it yet. Simple solution came to mind. Using regular 1/4' ratchet inserted in pulley holes I broke the bolt lose in no time (see pictures).
To tight the same bolt on the end of the procedure I did the opposite. The same ratchet was used to tight this bolt.

Next was to remove the crank pulley. Now it's time to leave crankshaft and camshaft in proper position so you will have a better chance to align them later.
I used small bar to slowly slide the pulley out from each side by twisting bar against the engine block. Take careful moves here to make sure you don't bend the engine oil pan. Make sure you don't loose the pulley woodruff key.
Once pulley is out - remove the timing belt front cover. I believe there are 5 bolts. 10mm socket can do it.

Support engine from the bottom Motormount that has to be removed Now you have the front of the engine exposed and the only obstacle is the motor mount.
In my case I removed the whole mount with two brackets that hold it. Cooling system expansion tank has to be removed for access to the motor mount body bolt (17mm socket here). Prior to removing the motor mount - support the engine from the bottom using hydraulic (or any other) jack and a piece of wood.

Motormount removed Removing the water pump

Now your work space is clear and you can work on parts that has to be replaced besides the timing belt.
Using the same 10mm socket remove the 4 water pump bolts and using the big screwdriver loose the pump in its place. Usually it gets stock there, so it may take a few moments to actually get it loose.

Do not forget to use some pan underneath of the engine to collect the coolant and prevent it from spilling on the ground.

To remove the belt tensioner - use 14mm socked and take the adjusting bolt out. Tensioner spring then can be removed easily. Clean up your engine as much as you need or want.
If you're replacing the front engine seal - use regular screwdriver to remove the old seal by twisting it out but do it after you cleaned the engine.
Check the surface where new seal will be sitting and if necessary - remove the rubber parts left there from the old seal. Put some motor oil on inside and outside surface of the new seal and using matching size deep socket (if you don't have a special tool for that) just set the new seal in-place.
All parts removed Then try to push seal a bit deeper with caution and keeping it straight. Keep going slow checking seal position. When it's almost in-place use flat part of socket extension to push it all the way in by tapping on it all the way around. It should be level with surface of the hole that holds it.

Water pump and belt tensioner installed Timing belt installed Now install the crankshaft sprocket with inner and outer timing belt guides in proper positions. Assuming the water pump and belt tensioner already installed and there are no leaks in water pump gasket - timing belt could be installed.
Since you do not have timing marks for the crankshaft available yet - try to slip the timing belt without turning either pulley. Now it's time to check all the parts involved. Make sure you have all bolts tight according to the specs. Loose the belt tensioner and when you sure nothing is missing or forgotten - install the motor mount, tight its bolts and then install the timing belt front cover.

Crankshaft timing marks Camshaft timing marks for CRX Si When cover is in-place - slip-in the camshaft pulley (do not forget about the woodruff key there). Tight the crankshaft pulley front bolt. Check the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley.

Camshaft marks are different for CRX Si and CRX DX and HF, please take a note of it.
If timing marks are not aligned remove timing belt from the camshaft sprocket and turn camshaft to align marks. Align crankshaft to match the timing marks. Slip the timing belt back on the camshaft sprocket leaving the front side of the belt straight. (front side here means the side of the belt closer to the front bumper of the car).
When all timing marks are in-places - rotate the engine slowly by CRANKSHAFT pulley counterclockwise two revolutions.
Counterclockwise is when you're looking at the engine from the driver side!!! (US Specs, CRX-es. I am not sure about UK or JDM specs here).

Idling engine If timing marks checks-out OK. Tight the tensioner and make sure timing belt is not loose. Rotate engine the same direction and make sure all timing marks match and there is nothing stops engine from rotating except compression.

When you're sure timing is fine and engine rotates freely - check for foreign objects around the spinning parts and timing belt - start the engine.

When all settings checked and engine works fine - replace the top cover of the timing belt. Although I never had it on my engine and in my opinion it's better not to have it there - people may have different opinion. Without it timing belt doesn't dry as fast.

In this article I didn't describe how to remove/install alternator belt and AC belt (if you have one). If you decided to change the timing belt - I assume you know how to remove/install/adjust those belts already.

Honda part numbers:
Timing belt: 14400-PM6-004
Water Pump: 19200-P01-004
Timing belt tensioner: 14510-PM7-004
Front engine seal: 91212-PEO-662

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Total messages: 2

Exposed parts - change them while you can
posted by: Mark on Thursday, March 4, 2010 at 6:10 PM
I agree with engine oil seal note.
The only difference in my mind - oil seal cost a dollar or two. You're already there - why not change it even if it is in good or fair condition. Takes only 5 extra minutes.
I'd say - replace all the parts associated with timing belt - water pump, belt tensioner and the engine seal.
Any of those parts go - headache you gonna get is more than it's worth!
Additional parts to change when doing timing belt
posted by: ellupo on Monday, September 7, 2009 at 08:10 AM
Just a tip to everybody who is changing the timing belt: Strongly consider changing the front engine seal when doing the belt. I didn't think about it 35'000 miles ago, when I changed my timing belt. Right now I'm in the process of taking the head off because the belt broke due to oil contamination from the leaking engine seal. It's probably gonna cost me about $500 and a lot of time. Save yourself the headache and change the seal if it's older then 100'000 miles.
Also consider putting on a new belt tensioner. If the bearing seizes, it will bust your belt very quickly (happened to a friend of mine)